12th December 2024

Again we woke naturally both sleeping better than expected. Unknowingly, the heavens had opened last night and snow had sprinkled the grey mountains range high above, making the mountains appear softer and somewhat festive!

We packed away our soggy tent, sure that it would dry in the wind later in the day. We set off and soon were swallowed by the forest, cool from the showers the night before. We crossed questionably stable bridges, some of which tilted at a forty-five degree angle over raging rivers!

Lost to the denseness of the woods we unknowingly climbed upwards. Throughout the hike, glimpses of mountain and glacier could be caught between the leafy green canopy. But it wasn’t until we left the woods that we could see the full size of Perros Glacier. We sat with friends enjoying the view and I took off my socks and shoes and paddled for as long as my nerve endings could tolerate the icy water.

Camp Los Perros was a quiet wooded area. The facilities here were much more basic than the last two campsites. To call the cold drizzle of water a shower would be generous. But it was one of my favourite campsites, or maybe I was just becoming comfortable with the routine and familiarity of life on the trail and the group of people we were co-habiting with. We were well acquainted with most of the campers now and found that a simple task like brushing your teeth would take a good quarter of an hour as you would chat with everyone you bumped into!

Rationing our tuna and couscous, we made up some more porridge for dinner before settling in for the night, knowing we had the hardest day tomorrow.