16th December 2024

It was an early start. Today was going to be a long day of at least 30km with an elevation gain of 1100m. The forecasted weather was blue skies and highs of 21°C which under the Patagonian sun would feel more like thirty! Because of this perfect weather window we had added the extra challenge of hiking to the famous Torres del Paine towers, the most popular viewpoint in the park.

The couple we were walking with snuck us a coffee each from their full board breakfast which we enjoyed before heading off. We walked straight out of the woods and into the morning sun which sizzled with potential. We made good time pacing along the exposed sections enjoying the piercing turquoise of the lake. We managed to navigate a fast flowing river having to resort to getting one shoe wet as there was nowhere else to cross.

We continued to climb higher and soon merged with the chaos of the famous Las Torres trek. We stopped at Camp Chileno where we dumped our heavy packs and enjoyed lunch and much needed electrolytes by the river under the small shade a lone tree could offer.

Our rest was over quickly and for the second time that day we were off. Flowing conversation made the distance feel smaller as soon the woodland trail began steeply climbing and the path became more cluttered with large grey boulders and other tourists.

Soon we found ourselves behind a queue of people all aiming to reach the towers in perfect weather. People were moving very slowly and it was hugely congested with people descending as well as climbing. There appears to be no path etiquete with slow, unfit and unprepared walkers (like wearing Vans!) clogging up the path and halting those behind them. We scrambled up cutting our own route through people and the surrounding rocks. 

At the summit we awed at the grey jaggered towers dusted with snow which dominated the focus. Below a stunning blue lake. While the view was spectacular, the busyness of the viewpoint spoiled the experience. It was loud with tourists squawking and tripping over one another trying to get the perfect photo. There was a public proposal which gathered everyone’s attention and resulted in a round of applause.

We found refuge under a large boulder where we sat in the small patch of shade it offered. We didn’t stay long, put off by the busyness of the place and the relentless sun.

We arrived at Camp Chileno and were pointed to our tent next to the river. Unable to pitch our own tent at this camp site we had booked a pre-made tent which stood on stilts with a ladder to climb into it.

By the time we ate dinner the day tourists had left the camp and we enjoyed our meal sat with two W-trekkers we had befriended. We brushed our teeth and retreated to bed with creaking knees. I had decided I would get up early to hike back up to the towers while Dan opted for a lie in.