30th December 2024

While I woke feeling somewhat better, Dan woke feeling worse. Our tummies were still in bits and we had woken abruptly in the early hours of the morning by a commotion occurring outside. Sadly, there had been a death in the room opposite us and the grieving family and police could be heard quite clearly. Unable to get back to sleep due to feelings of helplessness and sadness we got up to get ready for the day.

We had a nervous breakfast of plain bread and pineapple juice before boarding a bus ready to endure 8 hours of bumpy winding roads on unsettled stomachs.

We left Puno, having spent two days here without seeing any of it. The scenery offered some distraction. It had taken another abrupt change. Greenery dominated the landscape now, with high, thin eucalyptus trees working their way up the mountain side. The road wound around soft green valleys that knitted together like plaits.

As we approached Cusco, the rural landscapes faded to chaotic city streets and with it the noise of traffic. It was dark by the time we reached the heart of the city but we could confirm two things about Cusco thus far: 1) there was no Highway Code, or if there was one, no-one abided by it, and 2) as a pedestrian, it paid to be thin. The streets were incredibly narrow, some without paths and cars would come flying down leaving barely 5cm between people and their wing mirrors. This filled us with anxiety, especially with our backpacks on, unable to gauge our own width as we navigated past people walking in opposite directions and impatient drivers.

We were glad when we got to our hostel and into bed. It sounds bad to wish away a day, especially when travelling to unique places, but I want to be honest about our experiences and not romanticise travel. For us, it has been a tough few days, from stomach bugs, dog bites, rough travel to disturbed feelings owing to the death next door. Luckily, with hindsight, I am pleased to inform you things improved from here and the gratitude and enjoyment of travel quickly became reinstated.