14th January 2025

We woke to the orchestra of birds singing, each clambering to be heard above the others. We sat eating a breakfast of scrambled egg, arepas (a maze flatbread), and fresh fruit alongside particularly good coffee (pictured). We enjoyed  the ongoing chorus of birds and the garden rich with banana trees, hanging baskets and a host of tropical flora.

As we were brushing our teeth in the outdoor sink, we saw four Blue and Yellow Macaws flying in a two by two formation weaving in and out of one another’s paths. I sat on the steps and watched the theatre of birds. A pair of Rufous-Tailed Hummingbirds darted around me so quick and close I could hear a buzz and feel the disturbance of the air. Various smaller birds came in and out of focus, some calling out to neighbours, others building nests, or eyeing around for food. The Macaws graced the skies several times, their yellow bellies obvious against the blue sky as they flew towards me, then as they flew away a contrast between their blue backs and the green vegetation of the jungle. I have never been one for birdwatching, but when a hobby is so effortless in an environment such as this, I found myself transfixed.

We checked out and said goodbye to a garden we felt utterly contented in. With heavy packs once again loaded onto our backs, we headed out into the jungle and down the road to El Zaino. During our walk we spotted more capuchins playing and fighting in the trees above us, effortlessly jumping from one branch to another, themselves silent but leaving behind a rustling branch.

Once out of the park and back onto the main road we waited for the bus to Guachaca. The local bus was just as an authentic experience as the day before. One local was transferring a large box of yellow chicks which chirped so noisily they could be heard over the spluttering engine. Perhaps they were trying to alert their transporter to the curious looking puppy sat in the purse of the girl next to them.  

We clumsily exited the bus to the side of the road and wandered down a dirt track for 2km, fording a river and making friends with a black dog, who guided us all the way to our next stay. The clouds threatened rain but politely held off until we were under the shelter of reception. We were offered welcome drinks of fruited ice tea and then led inside. YAY Sustainable is an ecolodge prioritising (you guessed it) sustainability. They offer meals based on the availability of local ingredients, many of which they grow in the lodge themselves. The water of the pool comes from the river and has been filtered via a path made of rocks and flora. The entire facility is covered in plants making up a thick garden, including several vegetable patch’s and a greenhouse.

Posh jungle huts with straw roofs, outdoor bathrooms and showers are the most common form of lodging here, but somehow, quite unexpectedly, the two sweaty smelly backpackers we were had been upgraded to a suite. This was a grand rectangular lodge made with bamboo and mortar, with glass doors, a large ‘living area’, a king size bed, and a spacious indoor ensuite. Outside, its own wild garden with chairs and a table. It felt very luxurious and we were smug with the satisfaction that we were paying less than a third of the price: flash-packing on a backpackers budget!

We enjoyed an exceptionally good cup of coffee and a lunch of burritos and empanadas before finding two hammocks sheltered under an open wooden structure, overgrown with Asian Pigeonwings, a climbing plant with bright blue flowers, green leaves and pea pods. Here we rested, listening to the bird song, the hum of the surrounding jungle and the steady patter of rain. Hummingbirds regularly joined us to feed off the flowers, zooming over us so quickly the air vibrated. 

We enjoyed cocktails with dinner and afterwards the best hot chocolate made with local cacao nibs and nutmeg. We retreated back to our home for the next three nights. We showered, enjoying warm water for the first time in a week. After, we climbed into bed listening to the rain tapping on the roof still awestruck by the beauty of this place.