24th May 2025

We continued through the night passing mile 530 meaning we were now over a fifth of the way through the PCT. I still can’t quite comprehend this mile stone. How does it feel like no time has passed, yet so much has happened on trail? 

By 2am we had pitched our tent, set up our sleep system and had crashed out. When we woke at 5:45am we found ourselves under a giant wind turbine surrounded by sand and Joshua trees. We packed away quickly and left our group sleeping. The first 6 miles were painfully slow. The few hours of sleep we had appeared to be insufficient. It didn’t help that the wall of wind felt as though it was attempting to push us down the gradient we were struggling to climb.

We reached the first water source and enjoyed breakfast while trying to hide in the quickly retreating shade. In the light of day we could see the difference in the Mojave desert compared with the rest of the section. The sun appeared to have drained all colour of the land and vegetation was more scarce. The hardy plants that remained presented as a faded version of themselves, the same tone as the sand.

The trail also felt a little more technical today. While we have navigated unsteady terrain and sheer vertical drops this was the first time we faced the two together. The path cut into banks of the valley wall, and often disappeared from historical landslides. Halfway up a particularly challenging climb, Dan and I slumped down for a snack only to begin laughing hysterically at the madness of being stranded in a desert with next to no water. Not only that, we had saved hard and given up jobs and a flat to do this. Perhaps worst of all we were sadistically enjoying it!

At the top we were rewarded with some trail magic. Locals had provided an unmanned cache of water and put up a large parasol with chairs under it as a much needed refuge from the sun. Under the shade sat the other half of our trail family who had set off the day before. We joined them, enjoying the cool water and some lunch.

We waited out the heat of the day, Dan and I spending three hours chatting with various people as they came and went. It was another nine miles to the road and after talking to some fellow hikers we realised if we pushed on we could make it and hitch to Mojave before dark. The thought of a shower and a bed after poor sleep for the last three nights made the decision for us (so easily influenced!). We sprang into action taking Sweet Rolls with us down the hill through yet more wind turbines.

We raced down, covering the nine miles at an average pace of 3.7 miles per hour and without the need for a break. The highlight of the day was rounding a switchback to see an American Badger completely unaware of us, presumably because the wind was blowing in our direction. We watched as he scurried around the path, dark nose leading the way. I was just remarking on how cute he was when he clocked us and suddenly becoming menacing fluffing up his fur and taking a defensive stance.

At the road we struck gold, not having to flag down a hitch as a kind couple about to leave the area noted us and offered to drive us to Mojave. We were dropped off at an abnormally nice Motel 6. Rumor has it this is where the author of Wild stayed before starting the PCT. Unknown to us we were joined at the motel by our fellow trail family and together we got a ride down the road to Denny’s.

It turned out we had managed to walk just over 40 miles in a 24 hour period. Not bad, but certainly draining. We should have all been elated, but instead we all felt exhausted and struggled to keep eyes open at the table. It was a matter of minutes for myself to fall asleep once back in the room.